Panay Island Travel Guide: Love, Typhoons, and Boracay Sunsets

Where the Journey Began

I still remember landing at Roxas Airport with a backpack ready to burst and a heart full of curiosity. From the plane window, the rice fields shimmered like satin and the coastline sparkled under the afternoon sun. My then‑girlfriend (later wife, now ex) smiled and said, “We’re going home, to President Roxas.”

I didn’t know that this small coastal town, once called Lutod‑Lutod, would become the place where I’d experience love, loss, and the power of rebuilding.

Roxas City: The Gateway (and the Seafood Capital)

Roxas City, the beating heart of this Panay Island Travel Guide, sits on Panay’s northern coast, where the Sibuyan Sea beckons, and the sea breeze preaches stories older than the church bells. It’s about 116 km from Iloilo City, a drive that’s equal parts adventure and amusement, depending on how much you trust your van driver.

Panay River and old bridge in Roxas City, Capiz, glowing under the afternoon sun.

I first landed in Roxas on a hot, sticky afternoon, lugging two overstuffed bags and half a hope. My wife (then fiancée) met me at the tiny airport with that grin I could never say no to and a wild idea:

Little did I know that “north” meant winding mountain roads, banana trucks stacked like Jenga towers, and a “shortcut” that somehow involved crossing a muddy creek in a tricycle. Welcome to President Roxas, she said, the kind of place where everyone waves, time slows, and life still smells like roasted corn and wet earth after rain.

Roxas City proudly wears its title as the “Seafood Capital of the Philippines.” Any local will tell you: if it swims, crawls, or has more legs than your dinner table, you’ll find it sizzling somewhere along the baywalk. I still bribe my way into secret spots where the best grilled scallops are so good they could make a fisherman weep.

Into the Heart: President Roxas / Lutod-Lutod

If Roxas City is the flashy front door, President Roxas (Lutod-Lutod) is the cozy living room—with patched floors, stubborn goats, and a tenacious spirit.

Originally named Lutod-Lutod, it was a sitio of Barrio Aranguel in Pilar, Capiz. Lutod-Lutod and neighboring sitios and barrios separated from Pilar and formed the municipality now known as President Roxas in honor of President Manuel A. Roxas.

When I first visited President Roxas with my wife, I half expected a dusty village. Instead, I saw a place full of smiles, community, and people for whom the word “giving up” simply doesn’t exist.

Story time: We arrived late, as usual, via a jeepney that rattled like it was held together by hope and chewing gum. My (then) mother-in-law met us with open arms and even though I was a stranger, she treated me like I was returning from war. (Small lie: we were just late for dinner.)

Family day out in President Roxas, Capiz – smiling together near the coast of Panay Island.

I tried to speak a little Ilonggo (I butchered it), and she laughed so hard I thought I’d offended her. Instead, she hugged me and said, “Better you try than stay silent.” That was one of the first moments I felt accepted.

The Family That Built a New Home

Here’s where it gets personal.

Years ago, my wife’s family lived in a humble wooden house near the sea. Then, one terrifying night, a super typhoon came crashing through the Visayas. Winds tore through roofs like tissue paper. Waves roared. When it was over, almost nothing stood. Their home was gone. Completely. I still remember the call. My mother-in-law’s voice shook as she said, “Wala na ang balay” the house is gone.

When I arrived in President Roxas days later, I saw devastation, but also hope. Neighbors helping neighbors. People building makeshift shelters. My ex-mother-in-law, bless her heart, was sweeping debris like she was cleaning for a party. My wife fierce, stubborn, unstoppable said, “We’ll build it back.”

And she did. Piece by piece. We rebuilt the family house together, hammer in one hand, coconut juice in the other. Locals helped. Someone brought nails. Someone brought wood. Someone just brought jokes to keep us going. When we finally stood under the new roof, I swear even the chickens clapped.

Today, that house still stands proud, stronger than before. My ex-mother-in-law and son-in-law live there now. And every time I visit, they welcome me like I never left the family.

That’s how it is in President Roxas: once you’re in, you’re family for life.

Iloilo City (and the ‘Sister’ President Roxas)

While President Roxas is in Capiz, Iloilo City also has a barangay named President Roxas, tiny, modest, but part of the grand pattern of names and memories in Panay.

Tubungan Church in Iloilo City, a historic stone church surrounded by palm trees and local life on Panay Island.

I once got wildly lost in Iloilo, hopped into a tricycle, and told the driver “to President Roxas barangay.” He laughed, shook his head, and asked, “Which one?” I had to clarify: “The barangay in Iloilo City, not the municipality in Capiz.” He responded, “Sir, better show your GPS next time. From Iloilo City, you can head north to Roxas City or west to Boracay. The roads crisscross like veins in this island, pulling you into communities, hidden falls, and sleepy towns that stop you in your tracks.

From President Roxas to Boracay

After a week of home-cooked meals, slow mornings, and neighborhood gossip that spread faster than Wi-Fi, my wife and I decided to take a short break.
“Let’s go to Boracay,” she said one Friday morning, as casually as if she were suggesting coffee.

Five hours later, we were in a packed van barreling down the coastal highway—two bottles of water, a bag of peanuts, and a prayer that the driver believed in brakes. The journey from President Roxas to Boracay Island is a road trip in itself: rice paddies stretching forever, small towns where tricycles outnumber cars, and roadside stalls selling grilled bananas that taste like childhood.

A Weekend of Sun, Sand, and Sentiment

When the Caticlan Jetty Port finally appeared, I could smell the ocean again, that unmistakable mix of salt, sunscreen, and anticipation. The ferry ride to Boracay was short, but it felt like crossing into another world.

Boat floating on the crystal-clear turquoise water at Boracay Beach under a bright blue sky on Panay Island, Philippines.

Boracay was everything I’d imagined and nothing I expected. Powder-white sand so soft it squeaked under your feet, sunsets that made everyone stop mid-conversation, and beach bars where music spilled into the night air like laughter. We walked along White Beach, held hands under the orange sky, and promised each other that no matter what storms came, we’d always find our way back to this island.

That promise didn’t quite survive time, distance, and life’s curveballs, but every visit to Boracay still feels like returning to a memory that refuses to fade. I like to think that’s what travel is really about: revisiting the places that shaped us, even when the people who once stood beside us no longer do.

If you’re planning your own Boracay weekend escape, it’s easier than ever:

Boracay Island: The Party Girl of Panay

Ah, Boracay, everyone flocks there, me included. Its white sand, turquoise waves, and nightlife make it a natural temptation for any traveler (or runaway husband, as I’ve been).

But Boracay isn’t just party. It’s also sunrise yoga, seafood markets, quiet coves, and local artisans crafting shell jewelry.

Boracay Island palm trees over white sand beach with crystal-clear turquoise water and bright blue sky on Panay Island, Philippines.

Once, I dragged my wife and son in-law to Boracay as a “treat.” They said they’d rather stay home. I threatened to post pictures of them in flip-flops lounging on the beach with me. That threat worked.

Even in its packed, Instagram-fueled glory, Boracay is still Panay’s dazzling gem. And I love it, for its beauty, for its freedom, but maybe also for what it showed me: that people can dream, rebuild, and dance, even after storms.

My Love Letter to Panay

Panay Island isn’t just one place, it’s a patchwork of stories. From Iloilo City with its Spanish churches and batchoy, to Roxas City, the seafood capital of the Philippines, and the party-paradise Boracay, each corner has its own magic. But President Roxas? That’s where the soul lives.

Here’s my favorite route if you’re traveling around the island👇.

Getting There

If you’re flying to Panay, check the best flight deals on Skyscanner, Kiwi.com or Aviasales. You can land either in Roxas City Airport or Iloilo International Airport, both have connections to Manila and Cebu.

Once there, grab a Welcome Pickups transfer or rent a DiscoverCars vehicle to explore the island at your own pace. The roads are scenic and surprisingly well-paved… unless you meet a carabao traffic jam. (True story.)

Where to Stay

If you’re staying in Roxas or Iloilo, check deals on Agoda, or Hostelworld for budget-friendly guesthouses. In Boracay, book early paradise fills fast! I’ve stayed everywhere from bamboo huts to beach-side boutique hotels. 

For President Roxas itself, go local. Homestays here are warm, authentic, and full of stories. You might not find them on every platform, but that’s part of the charm.

Getting Around

  • Local tip: Tricycles are life. They go everywhere, and they know everyone.

  • For longer drives (like President Roxas to Iloilo), consider DiscoverCars.

  • Or book an affordable private car through Welcome Pickups, if you prefer comfort (and air-con that actually works).

What to Do in Panay Island

People come to Capiz expecting seafood, but they stay for the smiles. Here are my favorites:

  1. Roxas City Baywalk: Just 45 minutes away, perfect for grilled scallops at sunset.
  2. Lutod-Lutod River & Beaches: Quiet, raw beauty. I’ve seen fishermen there singing while casting nets — it’s a sight you’ll never forget.
  3. Local Fiestas: Come hungry. You’ll be fed whether you like it or not.
  4. Visit the Markets: Try isda sa tuba (fish in coconut vinegar) and buy fresh crabs that could arm wrestle you.
  5. Day Trip to Iloilo City: Colonial charm, cathedral bells, and endless food.
  6. Weekend Escape to Boracay: Because even the most laid-back soul deserves white sand once in a while.

Tours & Activities

If you want to explore nearby islands, waterfalls, or seafood farms, check GetYourGuide and Viator for local tours. They often include transport, meals, and best of all  guides who know the island like the back of their calloused hands. You can even book eco-tours that support local fishermen and community projects, a beautiful way to give back.

When the Storm Came (and Stayed)

Let me be real for a second. Travel blogs often skip the sad parts. But life in President Roxas taught me that you can’t truly know a place until you’ve seen it after disaster.

When that super typhoon hit, it took more than houses, it took memories. But what it gave back was humanity.

I remember one night sitting with my wife under a broken roof, holding a flickering candle, both of us soaked and exhausted. She looked at me and said, “This is still home.”

Travel Smart, Stay Protected

If you travel during typhoon season (June to November), always get insurance. Trust me, I learned the hard way.

👉 EKTA Travel Insurance offers affordable coverage that even includes weather-related disruptions.
And if your flight ever gets delayed, canceled, or overbooked, AirHelp can help you claim compensation you didn’t even know you were owed.

Pro tip: save these links before you travel, you’ll thank me later.

Funny Stories (Because Every Trip Needs Some)

  • The Banana Incident: I once asked for “isda” (fish) and ended up with “saging” (banana). The vendor smiled and handed me both. I think that’s love.

  • The Scooter Misadventure: In Boracay, I told my wife I knew the way. After three loops, we found ourselves in the same alley. A local kid shouted, “Kuya, you lost again?” — He wasn’t wrong.

  • Fiesta Overload: My mother-in-law warned me: “Eat slow.” I didn’t listen. Three plates of lechon later, I couldn’t move. They made fun of me for years.

  • Typhoon Chicken Chase: During rebuilding, one chicken refused to leave the construction site. We named him “Contractor.” He still lives there.

Suggested 1-Week Panay Itinerary

Day 1: Fly into Roxas City (via Skyscanner) seafood dinner by the bay.

Day 2: President Roxas (Lutod-Lutod) homestay. Visit family farms, cook with locals. .

Day 3: Drive to Iloilo (via DiscoverCars) Explore heritage churches.

Day 4: Iloilo River Esplanade, Try La Paz Batchoy.

Day 5: Ferry or bus to Caticlan → Head to Boracay (book early via Agoda).

Day 6: Island hopping with GetYourGuide or Viator.

Day 7: Return flight, claim any delays with AirHelp.

Why I’ll Always Come Back

People often ask: “Why do you still visit your ex’s family?” I just smile. Because it’s not about the past, it’s about the people. The love. The laughter. The lessons learned hammering nails into a roof we rebuilt together.

President Roxas isn’t just a dot on the map. It’s where I found love, lost it, and learned that sometimes the truest kind of love doesn’t leave, it just changes shape.

Whenever I return, my ex-mother-in-law still says, “Welcome home, anak.” And that’s all I need.

Final Thoughts

Panay Island Travel Guide about travel isn’t about distance, it’s about depth.
It’s eating mangoes in the rain, rebuilding walls after storms, and laughing through awkward dinners with your ex’s family because, honestly, they still love you anyway.

If you ever visit President Roxas, tell them “Pedro sent you.” You’ll be fed, hugged, and maybe convinced to stay.

And before you book your trip, use my favorite travel tools:

Flights: Skyscanner, Kiwi.com, Aviasales.

Hotels: Agoda, Hostelworld.

Transport: DiscoverCars, Welcome Pickups.

Tours: GetYourGuide, Viator.

Insurance: EKTA Travel Insurance.

Flight Compensation: AirHelp.

Keep Exploring the Philippines

If you loved wandering around the Panay Islands, wait until you dive into my adventures in the central and southern Philippines.

  • Discover Cebu & Bohol: Two islands that prove paradise doesn’t need a filter. I explored hidden waterfalls, chased sunsets on Panglao, and even found the best lechon in the country. Read more here 👉 Cebu & Bohol Budget Travel Guide.
  • Escape to Palawan: From El Nido’s limestone cliffs to the secret lagoons of Coron, this was the trip where I learned that beauty can be both wild and peaceful. Dive into my full story 👉 Palawan Budget Travel Guide.

 

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